Pests we treat

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• Ants (inside only)

  Ants are widespread and relatively harmless although they can cause considerable nuisance when they get into houses.

  The treatment

  Treatment for ants if done correctly can be successful on the first visit.

  The first step in ant treatment is trying to locate where they are active. Once the activity is located and a clear pattern and pathway to and from the nest is established, then treatment can be very quick and effective.

  Whilst we do recommend that a revisit is completed, many customers prefer to monitor the activity themselves.

• Bedbugs

  Bedbugs feed on warm-blooded animals. Their preferred hosts are humans.

  Bedbugs can infest even the cleanest of homes and an infestation does not mean a dirty home.

  They feed at night and will often leave you with irritating bite marks. These are often seen in small specs of blood on sheets and pillows.

  The treatment

  Treating bedbugs can be a long and tedious process but can be successful if done properly. We will visit to confirm evidence of bedbugs in the property before starting any treatment. We will need to confirm an active infestation before providing treatment.

  We will investigate areas where infestations usually occur, looking for live bugs, egg and poo deposits. Areas include the bed frame, mattress, draws, wardrobes, curtains, picture frame, sofas or chairs and cracks and crevices.

  To ensure effective and successful treatment, we need your help. Once we've identified a bedbug problem, you will need to make your home ready for the treatment. You must carry out the following:

  Remove all clutter from areas requiring treatment

  • Place all clothing items, curtains, bedding, throws and so on in rubbish bags. Seal them and empty into the washing machine. Dispose of these bags outside the premises as they may contain bedbugs
  • It is important to wash items using hot water. Cold water will not kill bedbugs or their eggs
  • Put all washed clothing - bedding, towels curtains, throws and so on - into a clothes dryer for at least 20 minutes on high heat. This will kill any bedbugs and eggs that are present
  • Once washing and drying cycles are complete, place clean laundry in new clear rubbish bags and seal until treatment is complete
  • Move all furniture in affected areas 12 to 18 inches away from walls. Floors and shelves of closets should also be clear. This will allow for proper vacuuming, better inspection and treatment. It may also be necessary to dismantle or remove some items of furniture before treatment.

  Vacuuming

  Vacuum the following areas:

  • Remove all drawers from chest of drawers, bedside tables and so on. This will allow for proper vacuuming, better inspection and treatment
  • Check behind pictures or on other wall items. Vacuum if necessary
  • Use the nozzle attachment on your vacuum to capture bedbugs and their eggs
  • Inspect your mattress, paying attention to the folds, crevices and underside. These are locations where bedbugs like to hide
  • Bed frames, inside dressers, cabinets and drawers
  • Along skirting boards, outlets and perimeters of the room
  • Cloth-covered furniture such as sofas. Pay attention to the seams and folds of cushions, surfaces where cushions sit, and underneath the piece of furniture
  • Throws and rugs - tops and bottoms
  • Carpets
  • Around and under items that cannot be easily moved, such as stove and fridges
  • Electronic items such as telephones, radios, clocks and computer components all contain tiny crevices where bedbugs can hide and lay eggs
  • Windows and curtains/blinds. Raise or tie off items such as drapes or blinds so they are not near the floor
  • Door casings and trim.

  General

  • Check hard-covered books, magazines, DVD boxes and papers to ensure no bedbugs are present and place items in rubbish bags
  • Do not transfer any items to another room as this can spread the problem
  • Remove mattresses from beds and stand upright against the wall.

  On the day of treatment we will need access to your property. You will not be able to enter the property for up to four hours after treatment begins. We currently use a water-soluble chemical to treat bedbugs. This will dry over the fours hours to a fine powder. We recommend a deep vacuum of the property seven days after the treatment.

  We'll arrange a follow-up visit for up to 14 days after the initial treatment. A second or third treatment may take place depending on the level of infestation. Or we may put in monitoring equipment to check for activity.

• Cockroaches

  The two most common types of cockroaches to infest commercial and domestic properties in the UK are the:

  • German cockroach
  • Oriental cockroach

  Cockroaches are considered a public health hazard as they feed on virtually anything (omnivorous). This feeding behaviour can result in cockroaches feeding in drains and waste storage areas. Diseases can then be picked up and transferred onto food products and surfaces. Infestations are often the result of broken drains or building defects.

  The treatment

  Treating cockroaches can sometimes be a lengthy process. All hygiene measures must be followed closely to ensure treatment is effective.

  Although there are different types of cockroach in the UK, each with their own preferred living space and breeding cycle, poison baiting works universally.

  Initially, you will be advised to:

  • Keep all food preparation stations clean
  • Keep all food products safely secure and out of reach from pests
  • Take any food waste immediately to the outside bin
  • Clean all cups, plates and cutlery immediately after eating/drinking
  • Bin all food that has been contaminate
  • Mop floors once a week.

  Most infestations take place in the kitchen. Prior to any treatment, we will survey the kitchen looking in draws, cupboards, behind kickboards and so on, looking for cockroach activity such as faecal deposits, shell casings, eggs and live insects.

  Once activity has been confirmed and identified then treatment will include the use of bait stations with insecticide and monitoring pads. The monitoring pads enable us to track progress of activity. A revisit will be arranged for seven days’ time.

  A good sign that the problem is being controlled is when nymphs no longer get caught on the pads - this usually means the reproduction cycle has been interrupted. When treatment has finished, all equipment will be removed from the  property.

• Fleas

  Fleas lay eggs in bedding materials of pets or on the pets themselves.

  Fleas are visible to the naked eye and are reddish in colour. Infestations can spread quickly, especially as a female can lay up to 50 eggs a day. Most eggs will fall off the pet and hatch wherever they are in the house, usually where the pet sleeps. Only a small number of the flea population in a house will be on the animal at a given time.
  

  The treatment

  Treatment for fleas is usually simple. Fleas typically lay their eggs on the floor in corners or behind radiators so there is no need to treat upholstery. Most infestations only require one treatment but, in some cases, a second treatment may be necessary.

  During the initial investigation visit we will inspect the property to establish there is a flea infestation and the level of flea activity. We use several leading brands of flea treatment which are not only effective but odourless, too.

  To help us do an effective job of eliminating the fleas, you will need to do the following before we arrive to treat your home:

  • Pets first need to be treated with a suitable vet-approved flea treatment. Please contact your vet for information. 
  • All areas need to be vacuumed, particularly around where the animal likes to sleep or rest
  • Remove all toys, decorative items, cushions and other items from the floors so that all areas of the floor can be treated
  • Remove all articles from under beds, on cupboard floors, and from under furniture as these are areas where fleas live and need to be treated thoroughly
  • Vacuum all floors and upholstered furniture to remove animal hair, organic debris, fleas, flea eggs and pupae
  • Remove bag after vacuuming and dispose of it in a waste bin or plastic refuse bag outside.

  You will need to make alternative arrangements and remove your pets from the property whilst the treatment is ongoing. Do not allow pets back into the house until the treatment has completely dried. The property must not be entered for up to four hours while the chemical sets and becomes safe. Do not vacuum for at least seven to 10 days after the treatment.  This will give the treatment time to eliminate all stages of the flea infestation.

  Remember, your help is essential to flea control. Although you may see a few fleas for a day or two after treatment, be patient. These fleas will be eliminated in a short time. If you continue to see fleas for seven days after treatment then you may need a further visit and additional treatment.

• Flies

  Everyone has experienced having flies in their home. Flies do have the potential to spread germs and diseases. There are many species of fly you may find indoors but the most common are:

  • house fly
  • cluster fly
  • fruit fly

  There should be no problems encountered if good hygiene standards are maintained and foodstuffs are not freely available to them.

  The treatment - cluster flies

  Cluster flies are very easy to treat and can be eradicated upon the first visit. They are easily identifiable by their swarming nature, most likely if a loft light is turned on or a torch. The flies will naturally start to gather around the light source and begin to swarm.

  Cluster flies may return to the same location year after year. Ensure good hygiene, making sure your home is tidy and clean, removing food and drink spills, stagnant water, open rubbish bins and pet excrement will help to prevent the problem returning.

  Once cluster flies have been identified, we will work with you to establish the best method of treatment.

  A small infestation of cluster flies can often be easily removed yourself with a vacuum cleaner or aerosol fly killers. For heavier infestations, then we will consider the use of insecticidal fogs or smoke generators. If an insecticidal fogger or smoke generator is used, then you will be advised not to enter the area treated for the following four hours to allow the insecticide to settle and become safe.

• Mice

  There are two species of mice commonly found close to humans, the house mouse and the field mouse. They frequently invade houses, garages and out buildings, seeking a warm, safe environment with a local food source and can squeeze through openings as small as 6mm.

  Mice eat and excrete on food, contaminating it for humans. They urinate on food surfaces, spreading organisms which can cause food poisoning, such as salmonella. They eat most types of food found in domestic kitchens, but prefer grains. Mice have been known to cause fires by gnawing through electrical cables.

  The treatment

  As mice are likely to take poison or step onto traps, treatment is usually straight forward.

  Dependant on where the activity is in the property, droppings can sometimes be hard to find. For example, in a loft space the mice tend to run underneath the insulation on the ceiling boards, meaning there may be no droppings visible above the insulation.

  Before we start treatment we will need to gather as much information as possible about access points, activity, location and so on.

  Questions we may ask include:

  • When did the noise/sighting first take place?
  • What time of day/night does the noise start?
  • Does the noise stay in one specific area?
  • Have you found any droppings or signs of chewing inside the property?
  • Have you been experiencing any smells?
  • Have you used your own poison?

  After we have the relevant information we will check the area where most activity has been noted, looking for droppings, urine stains, smear marks and chewing.

  Once sufficient evidence of mice has been found inside a property, we will plan the most appropriate treatment process.

  It may take up to three visits to control the rodent infestation. The first visit will involve a consultation and set-up process. On the second visit - usually between seven and 14 days after the initial visit - we will check any equipment such as bait or monitoring stations. The third visit should bring the treatment to a close and should take place three to four  weeks after the initial visit. During the final visit, all equipment, monitoring or bait stations will be removed from the property.

• Rats

  Rats can spread disease - such as salmonella (a type of food poisoning) and leptospirosis (Weil's disease) - and cause damage to materials, foodstuffs and structures. The most common species within the UK is the common or brown rat, which is physically strong, can jump up to three metres and squeeze through a gap of less than 2.5cm.

  Rats will seek out any environment that provides food, water and shelter. In homes they can live in loft spaces, wall cavities and cellar/sub floor areas. In gardens they are attracted by wild bird food, compost heaps, garden decking and collections of materials.

  The treatment

  Although treatment for rats is relatively simple, they are an extremely clever species that learn quickly from their surroundings and life experiences.

  Before we start treatment we will need to gather as much information as possible. Questions may include:

  • When did the noise/sightings first take place?
  • How often do you hear/see them?
  • What time of day/night does the main activity take place?
  • Have you found any droppings or signs of chewing inside the property?
  • Have you experienced any strong smells?
  • Do you or any neighbours feed the birds?

  If the rats have been seen outside, we may ask:

  • How many do you see at one time?
  • Do any neighbours have a pond?
  • Do you throw any leftovers out to the birds?

  Once we have all relevant information, we can plan the most appropriate treatment process.

  For treatment outside, we will survey the area looking for burrows, signs of digging and flattened vegetation to indicate where the most activity has been seen. 

  It may take up to three visits to control the infestation. The first visit will involve a consultation and set-up process. On the second visit - usually between seven and 14 days after the initial visit - we will check any equipment such as bait or monitoring stations. The third visit should bring the treatment to a close and will normally take place three to four weeks after the initial visit. During the final visit, all equipment, monitoring or bait stations will be removed from the property.
• Squirrels

  Grey squirrels, like most other rodents, are experts at gaining access to areas of our homes such as loft spaces and attics.

  Good climbers, squirrels will often take advantage of fence lines, rows of conifers and so on. If grey squirrels are infesting your roof space, they can be denied access by sealing up access routes using chicken wire. However, you must ensure there are no young or adult squirrels in your loft space before carrying out proofing work and any pest control treatment.

  The treatment

  Initially, we will check your loft space for signs of squirrel activity. Squirrels will often chew loft insulation and stuff it into a corner of the loft, making them clearly identifiable. The nest may also have a large opening.

  Other signs to look for is a strong smell of rodent urine - squirrels like to scent mark around their home so you may get a strong musky or urine smell. Squirrels are also most active during the day. If the client is hearing the majority of noise throughout the day and a little activity during the early night then it is most likely to be squirrels.

  The last things to look for is signs of chewing, fur and sightings of the squirrel itself.

  Once we've confirmed squirrel activity, you will be required to read and sign a disclaimer document regarding the equipment that will be placed. Once the bait trap has been set and is live under no circumstances should you interfere with the trap or put your hands inside it while it is set. All treatments carried out, including equipment used, is in accordance with the Animal Welfare Act 2006 and The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981.

• Wasps and hornets

  Wasps are not considered a public health risk but can present a nuisance when a nest is found in or around your home or garden. Wasps, like other insects, are beneficial to the environment as they eat other insect pests. Unless the location of the nest is causing a problem to either yourself or other members of the public treatment should be avoided. Wasps can sting and can pose a hazard if the nest is disturbed in any way. The elderly and those who suffer from anaphylactic shock are especially vulnerable. Treatment should be sought when the wasps pose a risk to residents or to the public.

  The treatment

  As long as the nest can be identified and is accessible, treatment should be straight forward. However, treatment of wasps nests is not always necessary or safe to do, and this is something we will assess when we visit. 

  A nest opening is usually clearly visible by a regular presence/activity of wasps going to and from. In the early stages of the nest's life cycle it may take a little longer to find.

  If the nest entrance cannot be identified or if the nest cannot be accessed then this may prevent or restrict treatment. The insecticidal dust we use is toxic to aquatic life, so we request you ensure that any garden ponds, including any in the near vicinity, are adequately covered. You will need to ensure that all pets are kept away from the treatment site, or indoors, for at least 24 hours. (Please note: contaminated wasps can leave the nest after treatment and it is unpredictable where they may die).

  Once we have confirmed that the nest is wasps or hornets and it is safe and necessary to treat, then we will carry out the treatment process on the same day. The type of chemical used will be dependant on whether the nest is inside or outside. However, once the nest has been treated it is common for the hive activity to increase and for the wasps to become more aggressive. You will be provided with an information leaflet, and be advised to avoid the area for the next four hours.

  Nest removal

  We will not remove the nest, as it will never be reoccupied. However, you can safely remove the nest once you have established that it is dead. You can enclose the dead nest in a rubbish sack by dislodging or vacuuming the area. Please ensure the vacuum is emptied after use, prior to using it around the home.

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• Badgers

  The Protection of Badgers Act (1992) makes it an offence to kill, injure or take a badger, or to damage or interfere with a set unless a licence is obtained from a statutory authority.

  Using a professional

  Find out more about protection and licences on the Government website.

• Bats

  All bat species, their breeding sites and resting places are fully protected by law. It’s an offence to disturb or destroy bats, or any place they’re living (roosting), even if it’s inside your home.

  Using a professional

  Contact the National Bat Helpline if you have any concerns and need advice. Where appropriate, it can arrange for one of Natural England's volunteer bat roost visitors to inspect your property.

• Bees

  Contrary to popular belief, bees aren't protected and can be treated. However, they are endangered so we'd always recommend exploring all other avenues before considering eradication. You can find out how to tell the difference between wasps, bees and hornets on the British Bee Keepers Association website.

  Using a professional

  If you suspect you have honey bees and they are causing you problems, then we'd recommend you use a swarm collector from the British Bee Keepers Association.

• Foxes

  We not deal with fox control. The fox is sometimes referred to as vermin, but it is not, and never has been categorised as such by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA).

  Find out more about living with urban foxes on the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health website

  We have no statutory powers or legal rights to eradicate foxes on private or other land. Anyone who illegally harms a fox could face a jail sentence of up to six months and an unlimited fine.

  Using a professional

  The Fox Project is a charity that offers useful advice on humanly deterring foxes from your home.

• Glis Glis (Edible Dormouse)

  Treatment for Glis Glis (Edible Dormouse) is currently a specialist problem and we do not offer treatment for this species.

  Using a professional

  When treating Glis Glis you will need to ensure that you are working with a company that has the knowledge, experience and correct licences required. Find a specialist pest controller who can assist you with Glis Glis on the British Pest Control Association website.

• Snakes

  The four most common types of snake found in Britain are:

  • adder or viper
  • grass snake
  • smooth snake.

  Slow worms can be mistaken for snakes but are in fact legless lizards.

  It is illegal to kill, injure or sell any native British snake or lizard.

  Using a professional

  In the UK snakes are not dealt with as pests, as problems are not common and dealing with them requires particular skills.

  Find out more about how to identify a snake on the RSPCA website.

  Find out more about reptile protection surveys and licences in relation to planning applications on the Government website.

• Spiders

  We do not provide a pest control service for the treatment or identification of spiders.

  Using a professional

  Further advice about controlling spiders is available on the British Pest Control Association website.

  The Natural History Museum also offers guidance on how to identify false widow spiders.

• Silverfish

  Silverfish are not considered a nuisance pest and are not a risk to human health. Adults are approximately 12mm long, slim and silver/grey in colour. Their abdomen is tapered at the end giving them a fish like appearance, hence their name.

  Silverfish are usually found in moist or damp areas such as kitchens, but are also found in bathrooms, under floors and in basements.

  If you suspect you have silverfish, then the best control methods are ones you can do yourself. Dispose of any stacks of paper (such as magazines and newspapers) or old clothing. Any clothing or books that you wish to save can be placed into a freezer (wrapped in plastic) for four to seven days. Ensure the plastic is left on until the items have thawed). The severe cold will kill the insects.

  Sealing holes, cracks and gaps in affected rooms can help restrict their movements to other areas. Locate and identify why the room is damp/humid and take steps to remedy it.